In Entry Level, we consider the least expensive watches from luxury watchmakers. They're still not cheap, but hey — every brand has to start somewhere.
Believe it or not, even elite brands like Vacheron Constantin have "entry level" watches. Though there's absolutely nothing cheap or basic about what Vacheron does, the world's oldest continuing watchmaker launched the Fiftysix line as its entry point back in January of 2018. Meant to invoke a mid-century charm and everyday flexibility, the Fiftysix line features a range of dressy sport/casual watches, mostly in 40mm sizing, that feature a traditional cascade of complications, including the Self-Winding featured here, a Day-Date, a Complete Calendar, and even a tourbillon.
For a brand most commonly known for their use of precious metals, VC has expanded its steel-based offerings and, where the mechanical models in the Overseas line start at $19,400 for the 37mm Self-Winding, the Fiftysix Self-Winding in steel on a leather strap sports a list price of $12,300.
As the least expensive watch that Vacheron Constantin currently makes (yes, even the 33mm Overseas Quartz costs more, at $15,000) the Fiftysix has a tough role to play as it needs to capture what makes Vacheron Constantin special and interesting while quite likely omitting some of the elements that one would likely expect (in-house movements, complications, and precious metals all come to mind).
As such, the Fiftysix Self-Winding is a 40mm steel watch offering time, date, and central seconds over either a silver or a blue dial. Both dial options can be had on a matched leather strap or the blue version can be had on a multi-link steel bracelet for an extra $1,200 ($13,500 total).
The aforementioned mid-century charm is directly derived from a line of watches that Vacheron Constantin made in the 1950s called the Reference 6073. Meant to mix dressy and casual elements into an everyday watch with both versatility and elegance, the 6073 had a distinctive and architectural lug design, a classic and legible time display, and even a luminous treatment. In turn, the Fiftysix Self-Winding has a lug/case design that makes a nod to the 6073's Maltese cross lug inspiration, a legible sector dial layout, and a luminous treatment for the hands and alternating baton markers.
More distinct to the modern Fiftysix line is a subtle asymmetrical case design that offers some protection to the passive (non-screw-down) crown. Total thickness is just 9.6mm, so while the water resistance is just 30 meters, the Fiftysix Self-Winding is going to wear more like a dress watch than a dive watch.
Visible through a display case back, the Fiftysix Self-Winding uses Vacheron's automatic caliber 1326. The movement is produced by Horlogère ValFleurier (the Richemont Group's movement manufacturer) before being finished, assembled, and regulated by Vacheron Constantin. Running at 4 Hz, the 1326 has a power reserve of 48 hours, contains some 142 components, and has hacking, hand winding, a quick set date, and a pink gold winding rotor (even on the steel models). Being a group caliber and lacking the Geneva Seal, here we see where some decisions have been made to hit a certain price point.
In blue or silver, the Fiftysix Self-Winding is dressy, but not in a formal way. While I wouldn't call this a sport watch, even within the confines of the VC line up, it's also not really a dress watch. In taking such a strong dose of inspiration from the 1950s, the Fiftysix Self-Winding leans on the versatility of that era's designs, rather than conforming to somewhat more modern delineations between various sub-categories of steel watches.
In the event that I lost some of you with that last sentence, let me offer a sort of range for the generalist steel watch, as I see the Fiftysix as straddling a difficult line. It's distinctly less sporty than something like an Omega Aqua Terra (with 150m of water resistance, rubber strap) but at the same time, it's less of a dress watch than, say, an IWC Portofino.
In many ways, I see the Fiftysix line as Vacheron's take on the same vibe that informs a lot of the less-dressy options from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is itself another brand under the Richemont umbrella.
Given the feature set, the lack of a traditional sport format – like a diver, pilot's watch, chronograph, etc. – I could also see the Fiftysix appealing to someone who has an appreciation for time-and-date Grand Seikos. Again, in the less-dressy sense, so think SBGH277 rather than SBGW251.
Even within VC's own ranks, the Fiftysix is much less formal than something like the Patrimony line and less exciting than the Overseas, next to which I dare to say the Fiftysix feels a little bland. But, therein lies the point.
Being less formal than the Patrimony makes the Fiftysix a better option for younger audiences (of considerable focus for a traditional brand like VC) and being somewhat more reserved than the Overseas prevents brand overlap while offering variety at the brand's most accessible levels.
Carrying a price tag that helps the brand edge into territory more commonly held by less exclusive brands, the Fiftysix Self-Winding succeeds as an introduction to Vacheron Constantin by casting as wide a net as possible, with classically inoffensive styling, good proportions, stoic colorways, and maximum versatility.
To see the entire Fiftysix lineup, visit Vacheron Constantin's website. For a look at HODINKEE Pre-Owned's Vacheron Constantin collection, please click here.
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February 02, 2022 at 08:00PM
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Entry Level - The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding - HODINKEE
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